It’s also good to have a trash can and a roll of paper towels handy to clean up any spillage. To develop film at home, you’ll need a sink, running water, a plug for your sous vide/TCS-1000, and some surface to place all your stuff on.
#C 41 PROCESSING AT HOME SKIN#
I didn’t use them, but they are recommended: blix can burn skin and mess up your clothes. 🧤 Rubber or latex gloves and a lab coat. ✏️ Masking tape and a marker to clearly label the chemicals. 🌡 A kitchen thermometer to verify that the chemicals inside the bottles reached the correct temperature. I use it to heat water to 38℃ and keep the chemicals at that temperature as they float in their jugs inside that tub. If you’re planning to develop medium format film only, this is not necessary. A pain in the ass to use, this tool lets you extract film leader from 35mm film canisters which can then be upcycled. This is essential for getting rid of water spots on your negatives. You’ll still need a way to store yours if you’re planning to hand it to your local lab or a friend for digitization or printing. 📩 Print File 35mm Archival Storage Pages for Negatives. Fits everything that needs to fit into ready film reels in complete darkness. ⚗️ Paterson Super System 4 Universal Developing Tank and Reels. Kitchen sous vide tools can work too, but I’d advise against sticking them in chemicals directly instead, you’ll heat the water and mix with a stirrer rod.
This tool is recommended because of the corrosion-resisting ceramic elements that make it safe to mix the chemicals by placing the tool into the liquid. 🌡 CineStill Film ☌s Temperature Control System TCS-1000. ⚗️ CineStill Film ☌s 1000mL Mixing Jug/Pitcher (though any plastic jug with 1000mL mark should do). I like these bottles because they can be collapsed to take up less space and reduce oxygenation of the blix chemicals, i.e., prolong their shelf life. ⚗️ Two CineStill Film CS Collapsible Air Reduction Accordion Storage Bottles (1000mL each). 🧪 CineStill Film Cs41 Powder Developing Kit for C-41 Color Film.
To get the water spots off the negatives. Still, the process is about as dangerous as pouring drain cleaner down a sink or home cleaning with bleach. Extra care is needed to avoid spillage and skin exposure. The chemicals used in the C-41 process are corrosive and should be disposed of responsibly. However, there is an aspect of colour film development that requires particular attention: safety. All colour negative film, regardless of its ISO, has the same development temperature and time, whereas black and white film will have you look up Massive Dev Chart and pick from dozens of options for chemicals, timings, dilutions, etc. Whereas sifting through a wealth of non-standardized film development options for black and white film can be disorienting. Temperature control is easy with a plastic tub and a sous vide cooker.
Īn old advice is to get started with black and white film as there’s no temperature control involved - presumably making it easier for beginners. It’s also the least intimidating process. I decided to start with C-41 (colour negative process) as that’s the kind of film I shoot the most. Which I was gently pushed towards by my life’s fortunate circumstances. Instead, I like to think of home film development as a privilege with some responsibility, a lot of really cool science an avenue for creative expression. Though it may sound like I am telling a story of being forced into developing film at home, that isn’t the case at all. Developed in CineStill Film Cs41 Powder Developing Kit for C-41 Color Film.Įven when I began scanning film to get better results, home development was still neither an objective nor a necessity.īut my monthly trips across town became more challenging after the new puppy arrived, forcing me to spend more time at home. Chiang Mai Noodle Sausage, or simply “Noodle” on CineStill 400D.
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